Recording Sherbro Island

The body of water between Bonthe at the eastern end of the island and the mainland, called Sherbro Strait, is a record tarpon factory.  In April 1992, Sierra Leone was in the beginning stages of what would become a decade-long civil war. With the aid of then-president of Liberia Charles Taylor (who is currently serving […]


Our expedited visa service was apparently going to take 10 days, but we didn’t have 10 days. My calls to the Cameroon embassy were beginning to resemble a hellish mix of customer service calls to the U.S. Postal Service and a cable provider: hours on hold sprinkled with various takes on absolutely not. I got […]

The Ghosts of Casa Mar

above The Casa Mar lodge sits on the edge of Laguna Agua Dulce on the extreme northeast coast of Costa Rica just minutes by water from the Atlantic Ocean and the Nicaraguan border. In its heyday, the dock could get crowded after a day of chasing tarpon. Photo: Lefty Kreh On June 7, 2007, a panga […]

You Are Now Alone

above By mid-September, the nights turn cold and the river valleys of Alaska’s Togiak National Wildlife Refuge display the reds and golds of autumn—at least that’s what the pictures looked like after we got home. We spent the entire time staring into the river. I watched the Mylar strips dance through the clear water in the low […]


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