There’s a wolf wandering around camp.

I’m shocked, but not that surprised. Having stepped off the float plane that just touched down in Kimsquit Bay, BC, it’s obvious we’re way out here. I knew this place was remote and wild and chock full of critters, but I guess I thought grizzlies were the apex predator to be acutely aware of. I’ve been around bears, but wolves? Nah, at least not that I’ve known of. But I defer to Jeff Hickman, owner and operator of Kimsquit Bay Lodge, and right now he doesn’t seem too concerned.

“It’s pretty docile,” he says. “We think it’s pretty old; it’s been moving slowly and is pretty mangy. It’s also pretty skinny, which might mean it’s hungry. He doesn’t seem that scared of us. He’s been walking right up to camp, which kind of makes you wonder.”

Hickman’s nonchalance is reassuring, but his wife, Kathyrn, is a bit more on edge. She’s got their son, Oly, in mind. He’s 8 years old. All of them are also worried about their new dog, a 1-year-old sheepadoodle named Sturgill who is 80 pounds of fur and curiosity. More stuffed animal than any sort of distant relative of that wolf, Sturgill wouldn’t stand a chance.

Ten minutes into our stay with the Hickmans and our hackles are raised. But we’re here for it. It’s good to be reminded of your place in the food chain. That’s an attraction. Kimsquit Bay Lodge is a great place to feel small, insignificant, humbled by the hugeness of it all.

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